Kumbh 2007

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The Ardh Kumbh is in progress in Allahabad. It is not perhaps as grand as the Mahakumbh of 2001. The crowds are less formidable. The sadhu samaj not on full display in all its dizzying eccentricity. Yet the first smudge of dawn over the ganga is still as pure. That primeaval chemical equation under the water still as strong. The cold hard penance of the kalpvasi (pilgrims who live by the river) still as impressive. My tryst with the Kumbh Mela began in 2001, when I went to cover the Mahakumbh and like all other sceptical rationalist hard secular journalists, I watched, astounded, as millions of people became ennobled and enhanced by river and sun. I had expected raucous crowds, filth, stampeding multitudes and ghastly conditions. Instead, among the dirt poor pilgrims that moved towards the sangam, I found dignity, introspection and a deep quiet.Among the rogues....