Snapshots from Israel

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The green line

We're on a helicopter tour of Israel. The green line which marks Israel from West Bank and Gaza is clearly visible. The Israeli side has green cover - trees, trees and more trees. 244 million in all, according to the government. Within five minutes of take-off from Tel Aviv, we're flying over West Bank, so narrow is the country. From the sky, I also see the Ashkelon power plant which provides electricity to Gaza. Beats me why Gaza-based militants would want to target that! Talk about cutting your nose to spite your face. We're off the chopper and standing a couple of kilometers from the green line at Gaza. I see a balloon in the sky. It's equipped with infra-red cameras that monitor the construction of tunnels supposedly used by militants to smuggle weapons and infiltrate into Israel. Tunnels also apparently run between Egypt and Gaza.

Save Gilad

First Sergeant Gilad Shalit should know about these tunnels. Four years ago, he was abducted by militants in southern Gaza who Israel says came in through one of these tunnels. His parents are in the Gilad tent - I see it set up close to Bibi Netanyahu's home in Jerusalem. They have started a high decibel campaign for a prisoner swap - release 1000 Palestinians for one Shalit. I'm surprised Israel hasn't ruled a swap out completely. In fact, the government is considering its version of the Kandahar swap - or the Rubaiya Sayeed episode. Also close to the PM's house, I spot a bunch of protesters waving End The Occupation placards - they're the Lefties!

Lambs to slaughter

Our wonderful guide Roly tells me the Holocaust is a major part of the Israeli psyche. The Jews are determined to never again be led meekly to death, like lambs to slaughter. Think that may have something to do with their pre-emptive military strikes and their taking seriously Ahmedinejad's delusional rubbish. Roly's words remind me of Partition. Both new-born countries faced a terrible humanitarian tragedy. The Holocaust museum in Jerusalem makes me weep, but we have nothing like that at home, I don't even remember being taught about the Partition in school. We seem to have moved on. Maybe sometimes it's good to remember the past.

Zionism and Aliyah

Jews seem to love to talk about the historical and religious connect with their land. I'm reminded of the Biblical Moses leading the Israelites out of Egypt to the Promised Land. Then, there was the return of the Jews from exile in Babylon (remember By the rivers of Babylon - Boney M?). Return to the Promised Land or aliyah is a recurring theme that pops up in Jewish prayers every day (and no, not every Jew prays). Aliyah is in fact both a religious and cultural concept. A Jew making aliyah is like a Muslim doing haj. And every Jew is taught the best Jew is the Jew that lives in Israel! He or she is probably better off doing that too - cause flying into and out of Israel is a complete nuisance, what with the crazy security checks.

A divided family

The Israelis and Palestinians could be cousins because both the Jews and Muslims are descended from Abraham. But then aren't the bitterest wars fought within families? The graffiti on the wall on the Palestinian side tells me one side of the story. 'I'm not a terrorist' , 'Pope you're welcome in Palestine', 'Israeli Occupation', and then suddenly Gandhi pops up, 'Victory attained by violence is equal to death for it is momentary'. Alas, there's no graffiti on the Israeli side. Even the check point is antiseptic clean.

The Palestinian side reminds me more of home, down to the young men openly staring at their foreign guests! I have no problem crossing through the security check point but then I'm not Palestinian. The Israelis don't care what I take into the other side but keep a hawk eye on what's entering into their territory. My papers and belongings are checked thoroughly when I return to Israel-controlled territory. As I cross over, I hope some day the wall comes down and I own a piece of it, like I own the Berlin Wall.

Jerusalem

Jerusalem takes my breath away. Half the city - the old city or east Jerusalem - was with Jordan for 20 years till Israel wrested it back in the six day war in 1967. The old city is their Ayodhya, with their version of the Ram Mandir - Babri Masjid dispute. Here in the old city is the Temple Mount. It's a hilltop platform complex which is super holy to all three religions. The Jews revere it because they say it's the site of the 1st and 2nd Biblical Temples. Jews still pray against the outer wall of the Temple (the Wailing Wall). The Muslims call it Haram al Sharif. With al Aqsa and the Dome of the Rock, its their third most holy site in the world, from where Mohammad is supposed to have ascended to heaven. If that's not enough, close to the Temple Mount is the site where Christians believe Jesus was crucified. I'm told everything is solvable - who gets how much land and where, release of prisoners, dismantling settlements, security, and even the right of return of refugees. The core problem is what happens to East Jerusalem and who will control the Temple Mount! I pray at the Wall and my second prayer is while looking up at al Aqsa.

Another Israel

A quick word about touristy delights. There's history, spirituality, magic in every corner of Jerusalem. Walk the Christ's walk. Or wander through an Arab souk. Sit atop the old city walls and see across the West Bank into Jordan. I do that and I also see a bomb squad checking out what eventually turns out to be a hoax call but that's okay. Other options include eating at a Moroccan restaurant, swimming in the Dead Sea before shopping for its therapeutic products, visiting the Church Of Nativity in Bethlehem to mark Jesus's birthplace, visiting Haifa with its Roman ruins, the beautiful Ba'hai temple, and gorgeous German Templar properties turned into hotels, and sitting at a cafe in Tel Aviv and taking in the likeness to Colaba. Israel is so much more than a conflict-ridden country. I speak from experience. A word here about the Jewish sense of humour - it's to die for. Wish I could insert a Jew Joke Chip into all us Indians.

Diplomatic faux pas?

What wasn't funny was a senior foreign ministry official's take on Kashmir during a special briefing arranged for us. 'The UN is biased against Israel because two/thirds of the member countries are Arab and/or Muslim countries. Too much attention is given to Israel and too little time spent on debating and bringing out investigative reports on the real sufferings in "Darfour and Kashmir". Huh? A few questions from us later, he'd beaten a hasty retreat - "I didn't mean to compare the two".