Dharamshala (Himachal Pradesh): Buddhism is often seen as a religion that does not have place for politics. A faith that many believe shuns the power play of everyday life. But do these notions about Buddhism hold true in contemporary India? How are Buddhism and its followers changing?
To understand the issues facing Buddhism today, there is no better place to begin than Dharamshala — ground zero for Tibetans-in-exile fighting for freedom. It is also home to thousands of Buddha’s warriors.
Lhasa Tsering is an angry poet. By his own admission his writings are more propaganda than poetry. As Lhasa reads, it's not difficult to see that like the wrinkles on his face, his anger and frustration run deep.
“These days whenever I speak, I begin by saying that I hope I am wrong,” Tsering says.
An active campaigner for free Tibet for over four decades, Lhasa has travelled around the world, speaking for his cause. But unlike the 15,000 other Tibetans-in-exile, who live in Dharamshala, Lhasa's reverence for the Dalai Lama and his middle path ends at the temple walls.
“The bare fact is that the Chinese came to Tibet to stay and until we throw them out, they will never leave. I think Dalai Lama's middle way policy is nothing but wishful thinking,” the poet fumes.
What upsets Tsering most is the message of non-violence the Dalai Lama preaches.
“A military man is raping a young girl. In her attempt to save herself, she flings something at soldier's face and he gets hurt. Can you call that violence? If there is any violence in Tibet, the Chinese do it. They use violence like in genocide,” Tsering says.
Disturbing as they may sound, Tsering's words are inspiring young blood in Dharamshala, youth who have yet to see the Tibet they are fighting for. What's happened since March 10 may, perhaps, vindicate Tsering's beliefs.
“We were on our way to India when we stopped in Lhasa. The Chinese Police had beaten two monks. We were there when Tibetans came out on the streets,” a Tibetan refugee says.
“There was a lot of Chinese police on the border. We had to cross five mountains on foot. My seven-year-old friend was with me. We felt very scared,” says a Tibetan young woman who was in Lhasa on that fateful day. She and a seven-year-old girl were lucky to cross into India even as violence carried on.
It was on March 10 in 1959 when Tibetans first stood up against the Chinese rule. Every year the day is marked in Dharamshala with prayers and protests. But what happened on March 10 2008 was something completely different both in its character and scale. It was like a spark that set off a fire that went far beyond the corners of the otherwise quiet hill town.
Leading the charge of the protest were men and women like Tensing Tsundue, a rising star in the Tibetan struggle. With his red bandanna, Tsundue almost looks like a Tibetan Rambo, taking on the Chinese.
“This red band that I’m wearing, for me this red band is the mark of my pledge that I will work for ‘Free Tibet’ and until and unless Tibet is not free, I will not take this off,” Tsundue says.
Tsundue's weapon is not violence, but spectacle. He has gone to incredible heights to embarrass the Chinese in the past.
So when protests broke out inside Tibet, Tsundue lost no time in starting an agitation — a march from Dharamshala to Tibet on foot. He says that this time, it's the Chinese who have their backs to the wall.
“So, they [Chinese] are paranoid. They are criticising Germany for letting their President meet His Holiness. They are criticising America for awarding gold medal to His Holiness. They are criticising India for allowing Tibetan protest. They are getting paranoid! They are losing sleep,” he says.
At Tsundue's home in Dharamshala, photos pasted on the walls tell the story of a young literature student who evolved into an aggressive campaigner.
His long-time friend and mentor, author Jane Perkins sees young protestors like Tsundue as warriors in the army of believers led by the Dalai Lama.
“This incredible force in robes — I see Dalai Lama as the commander-in-chief of an army of believers, with each monk having his rank fixed. And then comes along Tsundue who inspires those without robes. The lay people and the monks together form His Holiness’ army of warriors,” she says.
But even as the struggle for free Tibet continues on the ground, new battlefields have opened up elsewhere. On the Internet, for instance, Tibetans are now waging a war of words against what they call is the Chinese propaganda online.
A 28-year-old Tibetan activist, who prefers to stay anonymous, is one such virtual warrior, taking on the mighty Chinese using his keyboard.
A firm believer, he often goes to the Dalai Lama's temple to seek divine help. His laptop, of course, goes with him. Sitting alone in his office he fights what he calls the Chinese war of misinformation.
“On March 13, I was trying to do some online chatting with some Chinese, to see what their reaction is, but the first reaction was how could Dalai Lama do this. I was surprised,” he says.
Working for an American NGO he often blogs in Chinese, and uses it to communicate with Tibetan sympathisers inside china.
“At times it makes us really sad, because these Chinese are really selfish when it comes to our ethnic issues and that the Chinese government deliberately diverts purpose,” the online activist adds.
Provocative poetry, fierce activism, and ingenious online warfare — this is the new face of the Tibetan struggle for freedom. But where does all this leave Buddhism and its principles?
Tsering answers this question without a moment of thought.
“Before I am a Buddhist, I am Tibetan. Before I am a Tibetan, I am a human and before I am a human, I am just another animal. The fight for Tibet is not just about freedom. For Tibetans like me, it's a battle for survival. It’s now or never,” Tsering replies.
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