Dard-e-sar ke vaaste
chandan lagaana hai mufeed,
Uss ka ghissna aur lagaana
dard-e-sar yeh bhi to hai
[Sandalwood paste is the ideal cure for a headache,
(But) its preparation and application is a headache in itself!]
That Urdu couplet best encapsulates Kannauj's long-standing love affair with sandalwood oil and attar (perfume). Situated along the mighty Ganga...